Miller, James H.; Manning, Steven T.; Enloe, Stephen F. 2010. A management guide for invasive plants in southern forests. Gen. Tech. Rep. SRS–131. Asheville, NC: U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service, Southern Research Station. 120 p.
Manual methods include hand pulling as well as use of a wide array of tools for cutting, chopping, wrenching, and girdling invasive plants. Manual methods are mostly used on woody invasive plants when they are small. Eradication is only possible when the root crown or roots that can sprout are completely extracted and seedlings are pulled or eliminated following seed germination. Because it is difficult and even impossible to extract all of the shallow roots, stolons, and rhizomes of many invasives, resprouting will usually occur. Merely pulling small plants and cutting top growth will result only in short-term control before stump or root sprouting occurs, unless a herbicide is applied to cut surfaces.
When using manual methods, wear gloves, a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, and eye protection. Several invasive plants can cause skin irritation, especially among sensitive individuals. Some invasive species have thorns and sharp branches that are eye hazards, as well as flying soil from wrenching and digging that might enter the eye and warrant wearing safety glasses.
Hand pulling
Hand pulling can be readily performed on seedlings of invasive woody plants (and some large herbaceous invasives) when soils are moist or loose. If the roots are completely extracted, then eradication is possible. But hand pulling will disturb the soil, creating a seedbed for other surrounding invasive plants that might be establishing in the site. This problem can be reduced by firming the soil with your boots and replanting dislodged desirable plants.
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Hand clippers
Hand clippers are useful for cutting back climbing vines and small multi-stemmed woody plants up to 1 inch in diameter. Cut as closely to the ground as possible. For vines, remove a 4- to 5-foot section to prevent regrowth trellising to the upper dead vine. Immediately apply an appropriate herbicide to the surface of the cut stem. When this is not an option, you will need to cut when resprouts appear, and do so repeatedly until no more regrowth. For most invasive vines with large roots, it is nearly impossible to deplete root energy reserves with repeated cutting. The most effective time for cutting is late spring when root reserves are lowest following spring emergence and growth. Clippers also can help gain access in dense brush where it is necessary to use other methods like backpack sprays. Purchase good quality clippers that have a bright color for easy locating and a holster for quick access. Always keep cutting tools sharpened, and carry sharpening stones and files to the field. Clean and maintain tools to prevent rust and provide safe operations.
Loppers
Loppers are long-handled shears for cutting woody stems up to several inches in diameter. Sturdy long handles, handgrips, and ratchet mechanisms can increase the stem-size cutting capability. Cuts should be positioned as close to the ground as possible to effectively remove most stem buds. Loppers are commonly used in combination with a herbicide spray bottle for treating the cut-stump to prevent resprouting.
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Three-tined pronghoe, pick mattocks , and folding hand pruning saws
Three-tined pronghoe, pick mattocks, and folding hand pruning saws are used in combination by the Spartanburg Kudzu Coalition (www.kokudzu.com) to surgically remove kudzu root crowns. The knot or ball structure near the soil surface contains buds for both vine and root growth. When the root crown is extracted with these or other tools, the plant is killed. There is no need to dig up the long tuberous roots of kudzu as they contain no vine buds for regrowth.
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Machetes, bush axes, and cane knives
Machetes, bush axes, and cane knives are useful tools for both gaining access in thick brush as well as cutting plants for herbicide stem injection and cut-treat. Solid, easy-to-grip handles, hand guards, and easy-tosharpen blades are best.
Shrub wrenches
Shrub wrenches use a lever attached to a stem gripping device and a foot for extraction of woody root crowns. Shrub wrenches rely on operator weight or strength to uproot nonnative plants. These extraction tools are best suited for plants with shallow root systems, such as bush honeysuckle, Chinese privet, and other plants less than 3 inches in groundline diameter. Some brand names include the Weed Wrench™, Honeysuckle Popper, Root Talon, and Extractigator™. Shrub wrenches vary by weight, the pulling power, the size of plant that they can handle, and their foot size. Weight is a prime consideration for packing into remote locations. Pulling power of shrub wrenches currently available on the market range from 6:1 to 24:1. As an illustration of this ratio, an operator who applies 10 pounds of leverage force to the lever handle of a shrub wrench with a 12:1 pulling power ratio exerts 120 pounds of uprooting force to the plant. Foot size determines the kinds of soils the shrub wrench can be used in. Root extraction with a shrub wrench is easiest in soft soil, but working in soft soil also might hinder leverage with certain models because of the foot size and sinking into the soil. Soil disturbance and subsequent erosion can occur on steep slopes when wrenches are used.
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Girdling tools
Girdling tools can control some invasive tree and shrub species, although this treatment is marginally effective. Both mechanical and gas-powered girdling tools are available specifically for girdling trees. Other girdling tools include chainsaws, axes, and levered chains. Girdling should penetrate the outer bark to completely sever the inner bark in a ring extending entirely around the trunk. An inch-wide strip of inner bark should be removed to stop flow of sap and nutrients in the stem. Most often a herbicide must be added to the cut area to stop stem and root resprouting. Girdling may result in additional hazards as subsequent dead standing trees decay and fall over time; therefore, girdling is not recommended in high-use areas (along trails or around structures).
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